August 27

I made breakfast, a poor man’s benedict. They were good not great. That said, I’m up for an egg poach-off against anyone who wants to bring it. We spent the day regrouping a little, thinking about how we’ll navigate the rest of the trip. I did a great bike ride in the park, they have really nice trails and roads for riding here, it’s my best ride so far. Kari did an online class in camp. Yes, she was splayed on her yoga mat “working her upper body” with her walking boot on. It was cute as hell.


The Ft Stevens SP is the best park so far. The biking, the beaches, the proximity to Astoria/Seaside, it’s really cool. And it’s fishing haven. Lots of folks with boats staying here, some with portable refrigeration, fish cleaning tents etc. A bustling place. 

Here’s my wounded girlfriend hangin round the fire in her new boot, and a few elk who frequent the hood. Note the sand dollars she scavenged from the beach.




Another successful day…


August 26

 As one would suspect, we began the day at a medical clinic. The Adventist Health Care Clinic in Tillamook was the best looking option. They even had an emergency room, such as it was. Let’s just say I’m damn glad we didn’t have an actual emergency. It looked so spartan I thought about offering to make a Walmart run to replenish their supplies.

Luckily the clinic was deserted and we got right in. After a pass through a portable X-ray machine, yes, portable, we confirmed Kari’s foot was broken. After a search, they found a walking boot and a pair of crutches and sent us on our way. 

We headed to Manzanita, determined not to let a mere broken bone keep us from lunch. Getting Kari into the restaurant proved a little more challenging than usual. Shirley isn’t as diminutive as her namesake, so navigating the busy small town roads, dropping her off at the door, then finding parking took a while. But the Offshore Grill & Coffee House didn’t disappoint, it was great. Seafood Louie salad for Kari, oyster po’ boy for me.

We also stopped at a fish market in Garibaldi for provisions:


We hung with Shirley in the evening and watched a flick. A successful, yet disappointing day.

August 25

We headed out early to the Jacobsen Salt Co, a small artisan salt joint around the corner from the SP. It was a cool family run joint that sat right on the water. We got a short lesson in salt making, it reminded me of how maple syrup is made. They pump ocean water into large vats and slowly boil the water away, adding spices and flavors along the way. Fun place.


Next was a fantastic beach walk, it was 5 miles into the small town of Netarts. Kari did the full walk, I cut it short at 6 miles (including an osprey sighting) and went to scavenge some wood for a beach fire. We hadn’t had one yet and I really had a hankering for this classic Oregon experience. 



All went according to plan, it was a gorgeous evening. 




On our way back, we had our next Two Against Nature encounter. It was dark, and Kari stepped into a hole on the side of the road, fell, and, broke her foot:( She knew it was broken immediately, she had broken the same bone years ago. I hoisted her onto my back and carried her home like a good man is supposed to. Well, not really, but I DID walk fawningly alongside as she hobbled back to camp. I poured her into the shower, then into bed.

Not a successful day…

August 24

 We started the day with a roadtrip fave, laundry. I manned the machines while Kari explored the small town of Tillamook.

Next we headed to the Tillamook Creamery, how could we not? It’s an agro-tourism joint to be sure. We of course bought some cheese, and dined on, what else, grilled cheese, tomato soup, and chocolate milk!




We headed down the road to the Blue Heron French Cheese Company. It was very cool and we bought a bunch o’ provisions here.


That night we went to one of our fave joints so far, The Schooner restaurant. It sat right on the bay, and was another classic, small town, local seafood joint. 

Another successful day…




August 23

Today we did a great bike ride on the Banks-Vernonia State Trail, a rails to trails project. The trail was really well done and the weather was great. We did 25 miles. 

We ended up in Tillamook and decided to try a Mexican joint for a late lunch. It was pedestrian at best, our least satisfying meal to date. But hey, even bad Mexican fare is pretty good. 




We spent a lazy evening with Shirley and the beach. Another successful day… 

August 22

August 22
Today marks 3 weeks on the road, 5 to go. It’s been a blast. Somehow Kari is still sane, and seemingly happy in spite of her close quarters with me. As if on cue, I started the day in a bad mood. I was battling the cable company that serves the cabin-they disconnected us incorrectly. Long story, but suffice it to say there’s nothing like arguing with bureaucracy that trips my trigger. That, and my hip was sore this morning as well. But there was no time for grumpiness, this was a moving day. We packed Shirley up and headed for our next stop, Cape Lookout SP a couple hours north. 

It was a gorgeous drive. Oregon’s coast is amazing. It’s combination of attributes is unique. Spectacular beaches, mountains, beautiful farmland, and the most amazing forests. The forests are simply majestic, thick, lush, gorgeous, much more lush and healthy than forests in other western states. It’s also largely wilderness, with few people. And of course, sunsets…

Then there’s the seafood🐟 So far we’ve had rockfish, halibut, albacore tuna, smoked steelhead, fresh crab, crab cakes, grilled oysters, fried oysters, oysters on the half shell, oyster shooters, smoked salmon, ground chinook salmon burgers, calamari, halibut ceviche, pacific cod, black cod, and clams.

Here was lunch on the way, one halibut sandwich, one rockfish, two hash browns, at Otis’s Cafe in Lincoln City. 


Little did I know it, but today was my day to be declared Mr Preparation. Self-declared of course. One of the realities of traveling in a rig is that you really have to prepare. They’re so small you have to think about what you need-there just isn’t room for anything extraneous. And of course it opens up a whole new world of gear. Guy AND gal gear. We bought Shirley in 2019 so we’ve had a lengthy shakedown period to figure all this out. We even subscribe to Airstream Life and RV Magazine, go figure. Like good marketers they ply you with lotsa wares and test your will power. 

I had sprung for two recent items that were about to save us. A trailer tire pressure monitoring system, and a new towing/service company (like AAA) that caters to RV nerds. We were tooling along a back road, a serious back road barely wide enough for Shirley to pass-hilly, windy, etc, when my tire monitor went off. One of our 4 trailer tires was leaking air, fast. Instead of discovering this when the tire actually blew or went totally flat, Mr Preparation knew early, giving us a chance to get somewhere other than the side of a country road. This was doubly important since we had no cell service, meaning Kari would have had to hike for help while I rested comfortably inside Shirley. We careened forward blindly, certain that we’d soon be stranded 15 miles from the SP. Alas, as we rounded a corner we stumbled on an RV park (even Mr Preparation needs a little luck) We pulled in, hooked up to their Wi-Fi, and called our new towing service, who promptly sent Eric. Eric was a jocular chap who changed our tire and had us back on the road in about an hour. Amazing.


We were in the park and set up before we knew it. The park was fantastic, we were about 100 yards from the beach, where we were soon planted. This proved one of our best sunsets to date-the lighting was particularly striking, there was a whale frolicking in the bay and blowin up a storm, and we were of course thrilled to not be wandering the Oregon countryside asking random rednecks if we could use their phone. 

A little later my girlfriend did her thing, check out her Indy-themed garb: 

As they say, all’s well that ends well. This day ended well:

August 21

Our campground cable allowed us to watch a couple Sunday news shows, after which we said our weekly prayers for the future of our republic. As I said earlier, take every opportunity you can to strike a blow for truth. We have a rocky few years ahead, and we need to relearn to share our country with our fellow countrymen. Especially those who are different than us. Country over party.

I hit a hardware and auto parts store for a few supplies, while Kari hit a grocery. We explored the old bay front in the town of Newport, probably the nicest town we’ve been in so far. It’s very cool. Nice shops and restaurants. Very picturesque. It’s also a working town, a fishing town. The harbor is full of fishing rigs, dozens of independents. We had a big lunch at Local Ocean Seafood. As always Kari had found the foodie’s hangout. She had an amazing black cod dish, I had a rockfish Italiano sandwich, and we split a halibut ceviche. Sublime…



This old man of the sea mural was very cool:


Earlier I mentioned the random yet frequent grunting from sea lions. This will give you a sense of it, this is from the sea lion dock in Newport.



We did a long beach walk to end the day, and timed the sunset perfectly. Another successful day:) 







August 20

We loaded our bikes up and headed to Corvallis for the day. We’ve not found any good biking along the coast, and Kari had found a loop trail that traversed the city. It’s generally warmer and sunnier inland and college towns are always fun to explore. We did a leisurely 16 miles checking out the city, including Oregon State University. In fact, look what I picked up at the Beaver store! I know she’s a fashion maven, but how exactly does she do it, she even had the correct colors on?


Dinner tonight was at Sorella’s, an Italian joint on Nye Beach in Newport. It was very good and a break from all that relentlessly tasty seafood.


Here’s a shot in front of the OSU stadium. 

August 19

Breaking up is hard to do, but we packed Shirley up and headed north on our friend the 101. 

We had a 2 1/2 hour drive to get to our next destination, Beverly Beach SP. It was another super foggy morning. Our only stop along the way was the Sea Lion Caves. As the moniker suggests, this is a sea cave where sea lions hang out, kinda like retirees at an early bird buffet-they even grunt randomly yet frequently. It actually was kind of a cool place, an elevator takes you a few hundred feet down into the cave, which opens up into a protected outer cave where the critters are. We didn’t get the tee shirt but we did leave with this: 


Check these bad boys out:


We hit the park around 3 and tucked Shirley in. Amazingly this park had cable tv. I’m not a tv watcher but the novelty of campground cable was too much to resist, so I hooked it up. I had no cell service for the 2nd straight stop, Kari did have. I’ll admit I’m still loving the post-retirement freedom from the need to stay constantly in touch with the outside world. There’s so much more time to observe, listen, and actually experience the moments I used to miss while doom scrolling. There’s a lot going on in the world if one takes the time to notice:)

We hit the beach for a bit, it’s kind of hard not to… Todays podcast was an interview with Larry Summers, an economist I’ve always enjoyed listening to. Dinner tonight was the albacore tuna we got at Chucks. It was fantastic. As always, Kari’s culinary talents reminded me what a lucky dude I am.



August 18

I’ve decided a benefit of traveling in an RV far away from home is the ability to have bad hair without regret or fear of being seen. Every morning I tell Kari how lovely her hair looks, then I take a gander in the mirror at my thinning gray “mane”…let’s just say we’re getting good use of the hats we brought. Just another Two Against Nature battle.

I made breakfast-eggs, fruit, and cinnamon raisin toast, all from the farmers market. We hit the Oregon Coast Trail for another amazing 8 mile hike. The trail follows the coastline and though I keep saying it, it’s just spectacular. We passed through Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, 2 state parks, and a gorgeous botanical garden highlighted by a Japanese garden.

About 3.5 miles up the beach was Simpson Reef, an area known for it’s wildlife. It was teeming with harbor seals, northern elephant seals, steller sea lions, California sea lions, and a lone gray whale. It was very cool, hundreds of the critters playing in the water or lounging on the rock stacks. Their barking was deafening, we heard it long before we hit the reef area. My new binoculars came in handy on this perch. There were also a couple park naturalists with nice monoculars set up. As you may guess, Kari chatted em up, obtaining their entire life history, medical infirmities, vacation plans, alma maters, and home remodeling projects in just under 180 seconds.









We headed into the metropolis of Coos Bay for dinner and a concert. Dinner was at 7 Devils Brewing Company. The highlight was the fried oyster appetizer, they were scrumptious. Kari had a fried albacore tuna dinner and I had another tuna melt-apparently this is the area for albacore tuna so we’re getting our fill while we can.


We finally found some live music. I’ve scoured a bunch of coastal venues and the schedules of several bands touring the area and have yet to find a match for any national acts. Tonight filled the void a little. It was Coos Bay’s “Music on the Bay” series and they had the Portland All-Star Blues Band. The venue was Mingus Park, which was a really cool city park. It too had a Japanese garden which was lovely. Life is good when you’re jammin on live tunes:)

Another successful day…then again, how exactly could one screw this up?